Monemvasio to Mystras: Spielberg should make a film here

Note the castle at the top of the mountain. This was view from our balcony in Mystras.

I was sad to leave the ocean but Brant once again picked the perfect place in the mountains. The roads became increasingly more narrow until we were driving on cobblestones and realized we were in the middle of the town square which apparently is okay to do here…at least I think those were friendly waves from the shops. In the mountain I could see a deep gorge that looked so otherworldly that I was adamant we find before it got dark. So into another teeny tiny elevator, dump luggage in room, open shuttered doors to beautiful view and zoom back out the door. Some creative map reading located the gorge. Another place for the Ewoks to fly through….

With the magic of google maps and a very patient husband we found what we believe was hiking trail into this gorge. So happy the car didn’t get ticketed, towed or sideswiped while we were gone,

Yet another dinner at a beautiful cafe with a few cats sitting right next to me (I wonder why?). For the first time in a couple days we heard English spoken at another table. A couple whose husband just decided to come to Greece while in the midst of a road trip in Tennessee and booked tickets for a week later. They were talking about how the wife had spent time there since a child when they ran into a local they knew. Moments later a group of Greeks joined their table and slipped into perfectly fluent Greek—both of them. Wow—-wish we could do that! Inspired me to get back to my Spanish .

So we have developed a strategy for this part of the trip, hike in the morning before the buses arrive and hike in the evening after the buses leave. We have had castles completely to ourselves, but have questioned whether we are on the right trail at times. We reserve the middle of the day and after dark for eating, drinking and driving (somehow that doesn’t sound right).

I guess with this view you’d have plenty of time to pack your “To go” bag but can’t imagine how frightening it would be to watch the approach of soldiers from afar.

The ruins at Mystras have an interesting if not typical history. After kicking out the Romans, some Greek guy with lots of power (and I assume strong slaves by the looks of the big rocks) builds a really awesome castle/fortress which of course requires lots of people to keep fixing/ feeding/cleaning up so a town “flourishes” on the land below the fortress. It is such a cool (literally because its in the mountains) place that it attracts lots of artists and architects. It becomes such a popular and cultural center where everyone wants to live there so of course multiple wars ensue to gain ownership. The Venetians get it (bet the food was great), then the Ottomans take it over, but alas the Greeks get it back. Fortunately now no war needed to enjoy, just tickets and strong legs. Makes so much more sense (though not as exciting)to make money off tickets, restaurants and hotels than plundering…..

From this castle the enemy can be seen coming from land or sea

Once gain, BFGB shared with the cats, load car and we are off. We thought our room was a terrific bargain at about 55 dollars for 2 including 2 BFGBs . Now time to head to Olympia, home of the original Olympics—-but first a stop along the coast. And the question: Would we come back? Very beautiful there, very interesting to see the countryside of Greece and if we returned would do more extensive hiking but would probably go to a new place first.

I was struck by how well preserved the church was but then Brant reminded me that this was new construction only dating back to 1200AD and after. I wonder how my mosaics will look after 800 plus years?
An employee or owner of this seaside restaurant was disappointed that we were not going to spend more time in the area. He proceeded to write us a list of places to stop and explore including a lake we could dive into then swim under cave and pop up near ruins. It all sounded pretty amazing….
So we ate a delicious salad…..
…followed by excellent sardines and mussels
….and in a performance that repeated itself many times, Brant would go up and ask the waiter for our check and he said, “Sit down, I will bring desert then bring check”—-not once had we ever ordered dessert. The melon was delicious!
Can anyone guess how I chose this place?
So we decided we couldn’t resist a detour to the most beautiful waterfalls in Greece, “Neda Waterfalls”. We did not anticipate driving through towns built for donkey carts (or ATVs)….
But the views were pretty amazing….
…..sadly, after navigating dirt road hairpin turns down a dirt road with our mini something car was doing its best grip onto….we abandoned the plan which I guess was never planned in the first place…

So would we go back to this area:Yes I think we might. There was clearly a great deal to do in the area, food was inexpensive and delicious——and we need to rent an ATV and find those falls! Next time….

2 thoughts on “Monemvasio to Mystras: Spielberg should make a film here

  1. Brant & Wendy 

    Love the travelogue.  Living vicariously thru you. 

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    div>Mike

    Sent from my iPhone

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  2. What an interesting place. Thanks for the history, you would have been an excellent teacher. Woman of many talents! Yep Siri took us in to places that were not drivable also 🙂

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