Bye Bye!

In the Europe side, or the old town, of Istanbul there are many mosques, which means many calls to prayer daily. I wore earplugs to miss the 5AM call but the others were nice.

After saying good bye to Maris we headed to Istanbul. The more we visit Brooklyn the more we like it. We talked about how New York truly has a little bit of every country. While its a very pricey place to live you never really need to travel because everything is in New York. So why travel? We decided to test the theory.

Istanbul felt instantly exotic, but easy to navigate—even with few English speaking people. I suppose a great part of it was the large number of women wearing burqas, which I never completely adjusted to, but it certainly added to the mystery of the place.

After the 11 hour red eye from New York the airport looked very very large. We were thankful a buggy picked us up and took us to customs then walked us out of the airport. We believe we just happened to tag on to the paid service of businesswoman but she let us tag along.

It was an hours drive to our hotel which was actually within the old town—which is no vehicles—so into a buggy again. For unclear reasons we were upgraded so after quickly checking out our hotel we were off to dinner (which happened to occur about 3 hours after we woke up).

We are on the fifth floor os the restaurant which has an elevator for the food but not people. On the right is the Hagia Sofia. The print says there is one god. Brant is looking out to the ocean, In Back of him is another rooftop restaurant.
This was a meal we saw everywhere in turkey. A perfectly cooked fish with a a salad and bread—about 4-6 dollars.
Our room came complete with this beautiful couch, special teas and coffees and this amazing bath tub:
Nice to start out the trip with a soaking tub. I think Brant feared I would just stay here all day
But this is the kind of breakfast that makes it worth it to get out the tub. Every morning they started with this beautiful spread which was apparently “breakfast appetizers” before they bring the entree. Where is the Tupperware when you need it?
This is the basilica cisterna built by the Romans about 1600 years ago to provide water storage for the city, I took about 50 pictures down hereso count yourself lucky to only get a couple. We were fortunate that this had just been newly remodeled and opened about 3 weeks ago—complete with some new sculptures and a bit of a light show.
I bet it would be a great place for concerts….
It is very difficult to convey the size and grandeur of the Hagia Sofia. Lots of people here and I thought so unique to have a place initially built by Constantinople as a Christian Cathedral later became a museum and now has been converted into a mosque (hence my favorite beach towel on my head). Regardless this is clearly a place of great reverence to so many—-still loved by the Greek Orthodox and now deeply respected by Muslims. While I know this is controversial to say there seems to be something hopeful about that?
The beautiful carpet (super silky soft) was placed when converted to a mosque, Women are required to cover hair and to below the knee in all mosques. You can buy these cloaks on entry but I don’t think they anticipated how tall young women are today. (I just kept some leggings in my back pack but so hard to pull them on discretely, glad Brant is a tall guy!)

So this a HUGE city—in size and population—twice the size of New York City, and a third larger than LA. It is spread out over the ocean front of the Marmara sea along the Bosphorus strait on the continent of Asia and Europe. I didn’t fully realize the geopolitical importance of the location until I saw the ocean “parking lot” of tankers and container ships waiting to be tugged through the strait—-about a thousand per day. At the end of the strait, the tankers pop into the Black Sea. It’s a small sea with just a few countries along it’s coast —among them, Russia and Ukraine—hmm interesting huh?

The shipping parking lot!

While we did lots of walking—-20,000 is our top number we also used public transit. Our favorite was the ferry which was about 40 cents a trip. We happened to be there for Victory Day which is when Turkey took Asia Minor or Anatolia from Greece. Lots of music, food, people and flags everywhere (which was our tip off that it was a holiday0. Regardless it was an organized easy place to get around. And always food was nearby. It was definitely a city of contrasts—women in shorts next to women in full burqas—often chatting together. People tried to help us (like trying to buy tickets from a machine) but their method was to just say things over and over in Turkish so it generally wasn’t that helpful. We left with so many more places we wanted to explore.

But I don’t think I will come back for the black carrot juice! We went on a culinary tour with 3 people from Switzerland and a terrific Turkish guide. He managed to take us to 11 places from 6-11 pm to taste various Turkish foods. We even took the ferry from Asia to Europe to complete our tour—hence the taste of 2 continents!
Our last taste was the hookah bar which gave us the energy to complete our 20,000 steps for the day
The views from the ferry at night were beautiful
I kept thinking about the waiters going up and down 4 flights of stairs
We went to the sultan’s palace. Huge place and beautiful tile everywhere—even the ceiling…..
…and there was baklava everywhere else!

This is special baklava made for victory day. We also had baklava with water buffalo ice cream—-interestingly it’s made to be a little chewy. Chewy cold ice cream—-very interesting. Also some stands served ice cream with a magician—-very odd and unexpected—-the little girl in front of me cried when he gave it to her took it away and pulled from her then served it upside down. Kind of made me want to cry too—I knew exactly how she felt. JUST GIVE ME MY ICE CREAM 🙂

WOULDN’T THIS LOOK GREAT IN MEXICO?

The Tokapi palace was huge. We literally walked for miles through garden and palace. I think I took a hundred photos of just this place. We had never seen anything close to it in our travels. It was so old and yet I felt I could have furnished it with West Elm and DWR then cuddle up with a good book.

So you could stroll through your gardens
Then stretch out on your couch.
There were lots of cats here. The city supplies food etc. All were sweet and slightly shy. I think this one is waiting for the metro. Our tour guide told us stray dogs occasionally sneak on the ferry to get to the other side.
Tremendous contrasts everywhere…especially noticeable getting on and off the ferry
Hundreds of seagulls seemed to gather at the mouth of the Bosphorous strait at sunset
Saying goodbye to us at the hotel—this apparently insures we will come back.

This was a place we left with many more things left to do. Maris had warned us the airport was complex with 3 security check points before even getting to your gate. On the second check point they found a tiny pair of scissors in my knitting (which was not of concern atthe previous 4 airports), they kept standing there holding the scissors and not giving me my luggage back. I could not understand what they were saying—nor could they understand me. Finally, I said “Bye Bye!” And waved good bye to my scissors. She laughed, zipped up my bag, then waved and said “Bye, Bye!” You don’t need to speak the language but you did need some patience and a sense of humor.

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