Cabo to Loreto: and the whales followed us!

We feel so fortunate to live in a place people enjoy visiting, but it was also a nice treat when friends offered to share their timeshare time with us. Cabo continues to expand at an exponential rate, but it continues to have a spectacular oceanfront. Thirty seven years ago, when we first visited, I thought it was one of the most uniquely beautiful landscapes I had ever seen. Several hundred resorts later, they have been unable to completely obscure its beauty. It’s a little trickier to access these days, thus why were thankful to have very Cabo knowledgeable and generous friends to help us out.

My favorite moment was watching the whales from the balcony. I was surprised to see so many jumping around out there. And have to say the music is far better here than it was 37 years ago—-(actually I think nonexistent then.) Would be nice to hear more Latino music but I bet that wouldn’t be difficult to find. We heard 2 terrific bands, had some unique tacos and even got to watch bachelorette parties compete on the beach. A much more fun trip than our usual shopping errands!

In February for Brant’s “welcome to medicare”birthday we headed up to Loreto. For decades, Brant has wanted to see the Blue Whales in the Loreto Bay. They come every year to breed in Loreto Bay. (Only 4 places in the world where they breed, said our guide).They estimate 5,000-15,000 mature blue whales in the world. There was 10 x that number in the 1920s but they have come a long way from near extinction.

Loreto is about a 6 hour drive from Los Barriles so we broke it up with an overnight stop in La Paz. It has become such a fun place to visit. Drinks with friends, a walk on the malecón and an outstanding Asian dinner. (The prices of the food at the restaurant had increased by 35 percent but was still delicious). . Reminds me of our quick San Francisco trips for so many years!

It’s a good road to Loreto but there is a lot of creative passing. A good time to focus on knitting! It’s also reassuring to see the agriculture—hundreds of acres of all types of vegetables.

The last time we stayed in Loreto we stayed at a high end hotel—-I felt awful as we rolled our 4 mud caked Ebikes across their marble floor, but this time we got a cozy little hotel a quick walk from the malecón and the zocalo.

The food was good in Loreto but the trek to one restaurant was pretty amazing. It was about an hours drive to a cool beach restaurant. If we could have driven straight there on an easement it would be 5 only minutes. Sadly the landowner has put up large fences and dug moats… yes moats. And most recently an 18 wheeler across the road adds another detour. Kind of adds to the charm….

Best of all we got a perfect flat ocean for Blue Whale Day! At times we could see 3 blue whales at a time… while eagle rays went under us and turtles crossed in front of the boat. Mesmerizing for sure! The mountains come straight up from the ocean so it makes for a spectacular setting. They say when the Orcas show up for a blue whale buffet they disappear. They did show up a couple weeks later so our timing was great.

We also drove up into the mountains (on a PAVED ROAD) about an hour into the mountains to see a mission built in the 1600s—-when there was no road at all. After an hour up this twisty beautiful road we popped out into a tiny town where Mission San Javier stands against a mountain back drop. It was here that the very first olive trees were planted (thanks to those Spanish explorers).

So what were the surprises? 1. Not too many tourists. Suspect there was no need to reserve a seat on the whale tour. I think there was only one other couple staying at the hotel and we had the mission museum to ourselves. And seems this should be their high season. Seemed strange. 2. Not cheap. We thought the restaurants might be a bit cheaper or the shopping but it was not. I guess you need to pay for the gas that it took to get it there. 3. More paved roads, 4. A more Mexican feel (we believe caused by expats living more outside the town) 4. I finally found seed for my finch feeder at a mini super near the mission….alpista. It’s going to be a long drive back for more.

Would we go back? Yes, would love to Ebike to the mission, kayak in the bay or do a bit of hiking or catch the blues jazz fest. I do think the tourists might have been more concentrated in the golf course resorts nearby but if so that was a great strategy to keep it muy tranquilo!

….and who was so happy the whales came out to celebrate! Last year was a megaladon hike and this year was blue whales…. Next year??????…. Stay tuned.

Too many beautiful pics to choose from….