Mazatlan: total eclipse time



Eight months ago, Brant starting hunting for a house in Mazatlan. He finally found one where it appeared the owner was not aware of the eclipse (or he is just a nice guy). In other words, the price had not been “eclipse adjusted “. We were worried that he might cancel as so many other owners did, or try to change the cost.

So from Los Barriles we drove to La Paz with 3 other friends where we were relieved to find that TAR was an actual airline that flies direct to Mazatlan out of the tiny international airport of La Paz. We had three different times for departures, but they put us all on the same plane and get us there in an hour or so.

We were also pleasantly surprised to find our rental car waiting for us. And 3 other friends were able to get to our house at Playa Cerritos first so that we arrived to a home with chilled wine and beer .

First day was spent scoping out the area for the best viewing. So many factors to consider: possible crowding, avoidance of lights, seating, shade v no shade….etc etc.

We expected hordes of people but it was surprisingly easy. On the first morning there, a man was selling shrimp out of his ice chest and while we took a walk he cleaned a kilo for us. Our group of 8 had all been traveling quite a bit, so all of us enjoyed fixing dinner at home. The kitchen was adequate … a bit tight for cooking for eight but we pulled off several great meals… pasta with shrimp /roasted veggies and rotisserie chicken and salad.

Our friends who had been traveling through mainland Mexico for a couple months equipped us with an excellent cutting knife and an expresso pot. Smart travelers!

The day of the eclipse Donna and Brant lugged our place holder chairs and towels out to the beach. They watched dolphins swim by while they waited for the rest of the contingent to show up with an ice chest full of champagne and an assortment of food. I thought it might be a bit boring but between walks along the beach to visit drum circles and check out various telescopes, the day zoomed by. And no need to worry about space… the beach was pleasantly uncrowded.

Lots of people in the infamous chat groups said it was a life changing experience. It was eery, and beautiful and a bit exciting but not exactly life changing. and it was just a great excuse to hang out with a fun group of friends and catch up on our lives and get to know each other better.

Once the eclipse was over it was time to explore Mazatlan. We visited here over 20 years ago. Oddly there was little we recognized. I do remember exploring the district surrounding the catedral and saying what a shame it was unpainted and in shambles given all the beautiful architecture. It’s no longer shambling… it looked like a cross between New Orleans and a flat Guanajuato. A crazy mix of architecture explained by the past occupation of Spanish, German and French. And as in all refurbished historic districts, coffee shops, wine bars, art studios and gourmet restaurants proliferated in the former zapaterías , panaderías and Carnicerías… and whatever prior industry supported the town. Now was yet another beautifully restored historic downtown…. With its own unique take on it. (I know it sounds like I’m bashing historic centros but I really did love that we care enough to preserve these places, but strange how these are places for the wealthy to visit, whereas 20 years ago the city’s poorest lived here. Where did they go?)

We enjoyed the aquarium. Some beautiful giant aquariums and just hard not to enjoy watching children giggle when a sea Lion claps for himself. A Mexican family We befriended here 20 years ago took us to the aquarium… 20 years ago. There were just tiny rectangular fish tanks that held specimens I suspect they’d grabbed from the neighboring beach. And the girls got their pics standing next to the sea Lion . It was the tiniest most unimpressive aquarium I had ever seen, but clearly the people of Mazatlán were very proud of it and the girls loved it as it was hands on everything … including the sea lion. Clearly the new aquarium is larger and far better stocked, but have to say there is something special about a teeny tiny aquarium that 2 little girls can run around in giggling and holding hands.

It seemed weird to go on a trip and not see any whales. But it seemed nice to enjoy the sights with Mexicans and people from all over the world. I heard German and French in many places. in the past, it did not seem we saw many Mexicans when we traveled, but I think, as the economy improves here more and more are enjoying the same restaurants, hotels and sites. It’s very nice to see.

Seeing the eclipse was pretty amazing but I have to say having a parrot jump on your head twice is right up there too. On our last day we went to the observatory. We thought initially it had something to do with watching the eclipse, but actually, it had more to do with observing the comings and goings at the port, and watching for pirates and others, trying to enter. I’m not sure it worked that well given that the city has been occupied by Germany, France, and the US, not to mention lots of pirate stories here..

I think it would be nice to take the ferry from La Paz then stay at the historic District for a few days then take the ferry home. Maybe someday but perhaps we should not wait 20 more years.

Finally, does anyone know why this condominium complex is famous? Or infamous?