We keep trying to figure out what it reminds us of and I think I’ve figured it out. It’s a combination bits and pieces of many places: Rome, Greece, Portugal and Peru … oh and Mexico. Really it’s just a hilly compact old city with all sorts of architecture, great food, shopping and friendly fun people. It just needs a beautiful ocean and I’d be tempted to move.
Our hotel had an expansive view.
We took a cable car to a hotel high in the mountains overlooking the city:
Sadly the Level 4 (do not travel) did cramp our style a bit. We didn’t feel comfortable jumping in a local bus to see the blue pools and we were much more uncomfortable than usual in dark alleys. And I guess we generally kept a closer eye on stuff around us.
We were also reassured by all the families arriving for the weekend. This city was packed with tourists and while I’m sure many spoke English we heard none except when it became clear a few words would help close the silver sale. We did a meet an English speaking couple from Acapulco that encouraged us to visit.
Our first day in Taxco was fun but the traffic was worse and more bizarre than any place we have been. The roads were constantly completely filled with bumper to bumper traffic . There was backing up of whole lines of traffic to allow passage of a truck for example. There was not infrequent need for back pressing against adobe walls to let a car squeeze by inches away. And when there was a little space a motorcycle zoomed in. Interestingly it was all done calmly and fairly carefully… unlike traffic in other countries. (Although I do think someone intentionally bumped me with their car to make me move.) The only positive is that the cars were moving so slowly that you were unlikely to be hurt if they hit you. Cabs were easy to find, as well as colectivos because they just constantly circled the city… lots a little white beetles.
While the traffic made it a slow process to explore on foot or by put putt (maybe faster by motorcycle) it was fun to watch the city gear up for a night of music, food and of course drink. We probably would have been level 4 too intimidated to join the Barreda callejoneada had we not been encouraged by a friend of a friend (a hotel owner in Taxco). We were of course also the oldest ones and I think the only ones who didn’t know the words to any of the songs. That said we had a great time climbing through the little walkways of the city, accompanied by mariachis and unlimited shots of mescal. It ended with a somewhat malfunctioning firecracker bull a few feet away (glad I drank the mezcal). It was a fantastic way to see the city at night with beautiful music and a truly fun loving group.
While we wound our way through the city, in the dark with strangers all drinking too much mezcal I noticed(as I went to take a Pic) a phone notification said there had been a mass shooting at an in and out burger in the US. Terribly ironic and so very sad.
I knew this was a city for silver shopping but I don’t think if it’s possible to be prepared for thousands of silver shops…. Inside, outside, on top of and underneath…. I do mean everywhere. I certainly wasn’t and given that I’m more likely to wear titanium earrings so I don’t cry when I lose them I had no idea if the prices were good. I do know it’s easy to stuff them in your suitcase… so I did!
The second full day in Taxco was very different. It was bright and sunny and more than half the traffic had disappeared. We were too chicken to hire a cab to explore the surrounding areas, so we opted for more wandering. I’m glad we did.
We truly had a terrific time but we also found a sad place. There was a park with ropes strung from branch to branch. There were photos of those missing hanging off the branches. We passed this little park many times and there were always people gathered. Parks are usually joyous fun places in Mexico . Clearly this was not such a place. People were more quiet. More sad. I felt I was imposing to take pictures. I don’t want to gloss over the very sad parts of Guerrero but I also don’t want to present a sense we were fearful here or that the town appeared diminished by this. It appeared to be a thriving slightly crazy city with some very sad things happening to some of their young people (an oversimplification I realize). I have hope this will change.
We hurtled down the road to the bus stop, and once again in a very disorganized to us but organized to everyone else fashion we boarded the bus. This time our backpacks were searched…cursory for us gringos while very detailed for the young single Mexican men. It was a very comfortable bus again through beautiful country though this time fully separated from the driver by a glass door and panel.
We need to come back to see the blue pools….and wander a little more….and eat more ice cream ..and buy more silver.
Life's Been Good To Us So Far! 